Twelve months ago, when the Omicron variant of COVID-10 emerged, people insisted on dining al fresco on heated patios. By April, masks had (mostly) been removed and people were once again crowding bars and restaurants. But things have not returned to normal. In fact, 2022 was the most turbulent year for the restaurant industry since the pandemic began.
Restaurant consultants Baum + Whiteman have made some predictions for Utah in 2023: Upscale restaurants with white tablecloths are booked; Fast-casual chains are doing great; small to medium sized independent businesses are struggling.
The research firm also noted, “If you look at the number of newly opened luxury private clubs, … you would think we were back in the Roaring Twenties.” That’s true locally, too, with the opening of the 30,000-square-foot private social club Edison House on December 5th.
Oh, and butter boards are so 2022.
Here are our top food stories from the past year and some thoughts on what that could mean for the next 12 months.
(Leah Hogsten | The Salt Lake Tribune) Golden apple juice from the pressing of over 5,000 pounds of apples is poured into a container on October 21, 2022 to make cider during the annual collaboration between Mountain West Hard Cider and The Green Urban Lunch Box. Approximately 300 Salt Lake County homeowners donated over 33,000 pounds of Grade B apples, which will be pressed into limited-edition, small batches of Green Urban Lunchbox Hard Cider using local Salt Lake County apple varieties.
10. Cideries
Not long ago, Utah only had a handful of cideries: The Hive and Mountain West in Salt Lake City and Etta Place in Torrey. Just last year, the Scion Cider Bar opened in the Granary area, and at least three other ciders are set to open soon: Six Sailor Cider, Thieves Guild Cider, and Second Summit Hard Cider Company, all in Salt Lake City.
Long a go-to for those with gluten allergies, cider is now being discovered by people who realize it sits in a refined gap between wine and beer, with a range of different flavors. As the Scion Cider Bar told us (look for a story in the New Year), Utah’s apple growers and cideries are a tight-knit community dedicated to introducing interesting new beers and making quality ciders in small batches.
(Leah Hogsten | The Salt Lake Tribune) Pretty Bird’s Fried Chicken Sando, $12, at the restaurant’s newest location in Midvale, September 13, 2022.
9. Chicken, chicken and more chicken
This summer we rounded up the best chicken tenders in Utah. One of the most popular spots for anything chicken, tender, or otherwise is Pretty Bird, which has expanded its Utah locations and plans to eventually go statewide. Chicken restaurants are arriving in droves, including new locations for national chains Crack Shack (the newest is in Riverton), Raising Caines, El Pollo Loco, and Slim Chickens. Of course, another big development this year was bird flu…which could put a damper on things.
(Rick Egan | The Salt Lake Tribune) A mural outside the new Woodbine Food Hall in the Granary District, on Tuesday 2nd August 2022.
8. Restaurants in mixed-use condominiums
It’s hard not to walk in the shadow of the cranes these days as development is booming across Salt Lake, including the Post District, the Granary District and the two Maven Districts. Most are anchored by food businesses, including Woodbine Food Hall in the Granary and Urban Hill in the Post District.
(Chris Samuels | The Salt Lake Tribune) Elcio Zanatta serving Baked Cheese Puffs at the Aubergine Kitchen Restaurant in Draper on Monday, October 3, 2022.
7. Healthy fast-casual restaurants
Two Utah restaurants — Aubergine Kitchen and Vessel — expanded rapidly this year. Both emphasize “elevated casual” super-healthy eating, with Aubergine refusing to serve anything containing refined sugar (including the drinks), and Vessel emphasizing local produce. In a semi-related development, West Valley-based Trü Frü, which covers fresh fruit with chocolate, has just been acquired by Mars, the conglomerate that makes Snickers and M&M’s, which is trying to expand its (relatively) healthy offering.
(Rick Egan | The Salt Lake Tribune) Paella Mar/Muntanya, La Bomba Rice, Bilbao Chorizo, Confit, Chicken Thighs, Rock Shrimp, Mussels, Piquillo Peppers, Peas, Saffron, at the Mar/Muntaya, on Friday November 18, 2022.
6. Accessible fine dining
The first restaurant in Salt Lake City that really succeeded in making high-end dining more accessible and casual was Pago — but there are plenty of new restaurants in the city that follow this model, including Aqua Terra in City Creek Center (which bills itself as ). offering “affordable luxury”); Italian graffiti in the gateway; March | Muntanya at the Hyatt; and Urban Hill in the Postal District.
(Sean P. Means | The Salt Lake Tribune) The Durango Bar at 923 S. State St. in Salt Lake City received its bar license from the Commission of the Department of Alcoholic Beverage Services on Tuesday, August 30, 2022 — several months later tries.
5. An ongoing Spirits Commission deathmatch
DABS presented its final bar license to Proper Brewing in Moab during its December convention. It now has three licenses remaining until next July. That is, unless the Utah Legislature finds a way to increase the number of licenses. Considering they decided in the eleventh hour to strip the Commission of the power to vote on returning mini-bottles to liquor stores, that doesn’t seem likely – and the line for licenses just keeps growing.
(Francisco Kjolseth | The Salt Lake Tribune) WannaCinn, a new Utah company that makes artisan cinnamon rolls that opened in August and plans to open about six new locations over the next 6-12 months, offers a twist on the classic concept as you assemble crates of “Cinn” on Monday October 31, 2022.
4. Food companies run like tech startups
Local food companies are increasingly being set up with the ambition to become a national brand from the start; Established companies are also moving in this direction. These include WannaCinn, Swig, Beans & Brews, Banbury Cross Donuts, Laziz Kitchen and CupBop. (The last of these, CupBop, even went on “Shark Tank,” a real startup move.)
The only outliers this year were Squatters and Wasatch Breweries, although the beers are now managed by one company, Monster Beverage, and the restaurants and taprooms are now owned and managed by the original founders.
(Rick Egan | The Salt Lake Tribune) Valter Nassi at his former restaurant Cucina Toscana in 2010.
3. Big losses in the food scene
In 2022, Utah shed its share of food icons, including Kitty Pappas, who ran her eponymous steakhouse in Woods Cross; Greg Skedros, who directed The Mandarin in Bountiful for decades; and Richard Wood of Fernwood Candy.
The most profound impact may be the death in September of Valter Nassi, whose restaurants introduced Utah residents to authentic Italian cuisine, raised the bar for local restaurants, and helped the city take a quantum leap into a far more sophisticated way of eating and drinking. He also had a profound impact on everyone he came in contact with, as his many friends and admirers would attest.
(Trent Nelson | The Salt Lake Tribune) The new Lee’s Market at 300 North and 400 West in Salt Lake City on Thursday, February 6, 2020. The store closed in October 2022.
2. The continued loss of small businesses
Think of it as losing a niche species in an ecosystem: every time Utah loses a place like Lee’s Market or Hector’s, it means we’re that much closer to becoming a food monoculture. It looks like Utah’s first James Beard Award semifinalist, Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm in Boulder, will pull through with a little help from his friends — but because of the supply chain slowdown, skyrocketing food prices, and customers still not ready Eating out to restaurants, it gets worse before it gets better.
Prepared ingredients by Marcellus Foods, scheduled to open in early 2023. (Photo courtesy of Marcellus Foods)
1. Survival of the innovative
As depressing as that last point was, Utah is also a hotbed of food and beverage innovators who are surviving the current harsh conditions in the industry through flexibility and creativity.
Eve Cohen of Marcellus Foods is expected to open her low-waste grocery store in 2023, and Salt Lake City is also set to get its first food co-op after years of waiting. Even the old favorite Utah workout table, which announced its return this year, is changing its approach with food trucks and an online store.
Though small brick-and-mortar restaurants are struggling, tiny, nimble food companies — including ghost kitchens, food trucks, and independent chefs who reach out to customers via the web and Instagram — are holding steady. The other thing that helps these companies survive is collaboration within our vibrant food and beverage community, whether on a case-by-case basis or through more formal support and advocacy.